Looking at the Black Diamond Nitro I was unsure how I could manage to bring my plethora of climbing “accessories” to the crag with me. For the first many months I just avoided the problem entirely and used the Nitro as a day pack.
Looking at the Black Diamond Nitro I was unsure how I could manage to bring my plethora of climbing “accessories” to the crag with me. For the first many months I just avoided the problem entirely and used the Nitro as a day pack.
A sneak peak at some of the new climbing packs coming from BD in 2011.
“Dude, turn around!” yells Chris from the belay. Looking back, a thick wall of mist obscures the other side of the valley. A flurry of snow blows past and I keep going, anxious to get to the next belay. Tucked under a tree, I stare out a the sheets of rain coming down.
Last month we began a conversation about how to integrate fitness into daily life. We began by defining fitness, and then talked about the variety of options out there for different personalities.
The third step is understanding your current investment level. Before you make a plan (that’s coming up in step four), it’s helpful to understand what you have to work with today.
In my mind a good backpack carries well, is easily filled with gear, and is durable enough to stand up to abuse Black Diamond has attempted to combine the best of a haul bag and a comfortable pack by created the 50 Caliber pack.
Patagonia ambassadors Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva, along with Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto have stowed aboard Captain Bob Shepton's boat to sail the west coast of Greenland looking for virgin big walls to explore.
DISCLAIMER! I’m not an expert and most of this information has been compiled from various online sources. It is very important to listen to your body when pushing one’s limits.
At the start of 2010 I got interested in doing cycles of formalized training.
Interview with prolific anchor replacement master Sam Lightner Jr.
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Review of the new La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoes.
It is pretty much impossible to have exciting photos in our blogs unless we think about taking good photos while we’re at the crag.
This blog is about some techniques we use to take good climbing photos.
Enjoy!
Index Town Walls - Free Guide Book
A good first look review of the new Black Diamond Chaos harness.
Help Rockman break the dirtbag cycle by supporting your local climbing coalition, paying for camping, buying from your local climbing shop (and not asking for a deal) and buying quality-made climbing gear instead of the cheapest thing that may do the trick.
Dirtbag Taiwan is designed for budget climbers who long for an international climbing vacation. The climbing area Long Dong (aka Dragon Cave in Chinese) offers over 500 sea-cliff sport and traditional routes on hard sandstone. Routes are rated from 5.4-5.13, suitable for climbers of all abilities. Taiwan is well-known for its beautiful scenery, astonishing landscape, worldly culture, friendly atmosphere, and delicious food. After a hard day of climbing accompanied by splendid sunshine and ocean breezes, climbers relax their muscles in natural hot springs, and enjoy mouth-watering food in night markets of distinct characteristics. Rest day activities include a tour of the capital city, Taipei, and a visit to the National Palace Museum, where people witness Chinese history via stunning artifacts dating back to 1400 B.C. “Your Friend. Your Guide.” is the philosophy of LittlePo Adventures who delivers relationship-based adventures in Taiwan and China. Dirtbag Taiwan is guided and facilitated by a bilingual and professional outdoor educator, who is also a native of Taiwan.
Long Dong (龍洞), which means Dragon Cave in Chinese, is located at the northeast corner of Taiwan, overlooking the Pacific. It offers roughly 500 climbing routes on hard sandstone, and it is one of the most premier sea-cliff climbing destinations in the world. Long Dong has both sport routes and traditional ones, with difficulty ranging from 5.4 to 5.13. Most of the routes in the area are single pitch, however, two-pitch classics are scattered throughout like seashells on a Caribbean beach. In August 2010, LittlePo Adventures will run our kickoff adventure, Dirtbag Taiwan - Long Dong Climbing & Cultural Experience, at this amazing location with a promotional rate.
Upon returning home from an adventure, one might brag about their climbing breakthroughs, exaggerate their near-misses, and magnify the scenery and geological features along the trek. Excitement fades; however, the subtle atmosphere and appreciation developed through interactions with human lingers.
This article is about a store of the interactions between us (climbers) with the local farmers in Fumin China.
Beijing, Yangshuo, and Fumin are the three most developed cragging areas in China. Everybody knows Beijing, and climbing photos of Yangshuo have been exposed in many advertisements and photo issues in big-name climbing magazines. Where is Fumin? Why has it become so well-known in the circle of Chinese climbers? Fumin is a small town thirty kilometers northwest of Kunming, which is the capital city of Yannan province. Kunming has more than a 5.7 million population and has had the nickname “Spring City” for centuries. That is to say, when it’s too cold to climb anywhere else, you can always count on Fumin. Many Chinese climbers spend their Lunar New Year vacation in Fumin, because it offers year-round climbing.
Reflections on access issues in Yangshuo originating from conflicting interests among guiding services, independent climbers, and local farmers.
Trinity Rocks Massif and Usteto.
Hidden atop a lush green valley, only a few minutes drive from Trinity Rocks Farm itself lies Trinity Rocks Massif, one of Eastern Europe’s best sport climbing destinations.
A limestone cliff, 80m high and over a kilometer long, it boasts over 200 securely bolted routes ranging from 4a to 7c.
The cliff is broken into 5 sections from left to right with plenty of room for further routes if you have the time and equipment! There are topos available.
Uesteto
A little further round the valley lies Uesteto. Seperated by a green valley, these sister cliffs (East and West) provide yet more limestone sport climbing. With a lot more easier grades for the beginner. Great place to start learning to Lead climb.
Ousteto East has the most climbs, up to 40 metres high with routes ranging from 8 to 18 metres long. In hot weather, it is best climbed in the afternoon when it is in shadow.
Ousteto West has less routes but is quieter and calmer. It is better to climb in the morning till 12am. when the sun is not so hot.
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